General Cleaning Methods

Dust settles on upholstered furniture just as on hard  surfaces, and should be removed regularly, about once a month, depending on environment and use, with vacuum cleaner attachments--the upholstery nozzle and crevice tool. A brush will remove some dust if you do not have a vacuum, but will also scatter dust around. However,
down-filled cushions that are not lined with down-proof ticking should be brushed as vacuum may draw out down.
Reduce greasy soil in air by use of range hood when cooking; clean furnace filters reduce soil in air.
Arm and headrest covers of matching or harmonizing  fabric protect those areas against early build-up of soil from skin and hair. In summer, if people will be sitting on furniture in shorts, cover with washable throws, sheets, or large pieces of terrycloth to protect from
body soil.
Most upholstered furniture sold today has a label or tag telling how it should be cleaned as explained under
"Fabric Cleaning Code Labels".

Vacuum slipcovers while still on furniture, and shake outdoors after removing. If washable, wash in warm water and laundry detergent. Wash one large slipcover and two small pieces at one time in average machine; do not
crowd. Use soak cycle before wash cycle to remove extra soil. Use cold rinse at end and don't let them spin too
much. Take out of washer while still quite wet, and either hang over clotheslines or put in dryer. Take out
of while still a little damp.
Smooth over furniture and pull all seams and cording into place. Pinch pleats into sharp creases and smooth
any ruffles. Open the window in good weather and/or use an electric fan near the window or furniture to speed
drying. Or use a dehumidifier if windows are closed. Do not use furniture until slipcover is completely dry.

 

Upholstered fabric furniture can be shampooed professionally by a dry-cleaning plant, or you may do it
yourself with a commercial product or homemade detergent suds. Be careful to use only foam or suds and to avoid
wetting the furniture padding. Occasionally shrinkage is a problem, especially with cotton and some rayon fabrics. Always test for shrinkage, fading or color bleeding on the back or in an area that doesn't show. Also test cleaner you have not used before, before using, to be sure it does not leave a
sticky residue which can hasten re-soiling. Work quickly, doing a small area at a time. Blot the surface dry with a clean cloth or towel. The
furniture may feel damp for several hours, depending on atmospheric conditions. To speed up the drying, set
furniture outdoors in the shade, indoors with windows open or in front of an electric fan or heater. Commercial shampoos in aerosol cans are easiest to
use because they produce only suds and eliminate any danger of soaking the fabric. Residue and soil are usually vacuumed off after the upholstery has dried. Directions vary, so be sure to follow those on the label of the shampoo you are using. Shampoos which become powdery when dry are easily vacuumed off. If the dried
shampoo is not powdery and still has a soapy feel, it may cling to the fabric and contribute to rapid resoiling.
If you use this kind, do not depend on vacuuming to remove it. Instead, use a damp sponge as described under the detergent and water method.
You can make your own shampoo but it is more work. Use 1/2 teaspoon liquid handwashing detergent per quart of warm water. Make suds by squeezing a sponge in the solution.
Apply suds with the sponge or a soft brush, rubbing gently with the grain of the material. Work on a small area at a time, "rinsing" each area as you go with a clean damp sponge. Keep rinsing out the sponge to remove all shampoo. Avoid soaking the fabric. Move on to the next area, overlapping the last one to avoid spotting. Change rinse water frequently to keep it clean. Be sure
all the suds are removed or it will re-soil faster.